My family and I had a terrific weekend in New York. Throughout the trip, we had virtually no traveling glitches, and most importantly my family (i.e. my mother and I) did not kill each other.
On Friday my mother and I were left to our own devices for the first time without my father or our guide, NTC. We reserved tickets to the tour of Yankee Stadium and proceeded to the Bronx via the subway. While this sounds like a dangerous proposition, it went remarkably smoothly.
We arrived and found that Ticketmaster had inexplicably booked us for the 9 am tour despite the fact that we were calling at 10:30! An accommodating ticket booth salesman rescheduled us for the 1 pm viewing. This worked out great as it gave us time to eat and shop.
We first went into the Yankee Team Store, located just outside of Gate 4 I am a huge Lou Gehrig (1903-1941) fan and I purchased a replica jersey from the Cooperstown Collection to commemorate the trip. It was the only preplanned souvenir I bought. My only regret was that the jersey has Gehrig’s name on it. (The Yankees are one of three Major League teams who do not incorporate personal names on team uniforms.)
Upon the recommendation of the aforementioned ticket box employee, we ate lunch at Billy's Sports Bar and Restaurant (located at 856 River Avenue, Bronx). To my knowledge, the restaurant has no ties to former Yankee Billy Martin (1928-1989). It was your average sports bar, but my open face Reuben sandwich hit the spot.
We then had our tour of Yankee Stadium, the home of the 26-time World Champion New York Yankees. We would have attended a game but the team was in Kansas City and Boston while we were in New York. The tour was one of the highlights of our trip, entertaining even my mother who is not a baseball fan. Our exceptional veteran (Read: been at the stadium since dirt) tour guide took us to four areas of the stadium: Monument Park, the dugout, the clubhouse, and the press box.
Since 1932, the Yankees have honored their greatest with monuments and plaques at Yankee Stadium. Today these are situated in Monument Park, accessible via the Field Level staircase at Section 36, Monument Park opens when the gates open and closes 45 minutes prior to the start of the game, subject to capacity restrictions. The shrines are situated just outside of the playing field in the outfield. Naturally, I was most interested in Gehrig, a first baseman from 1923-39. On July 4, 1939 he became the first Major League Baseball player to have his uniform number retired. Dying of ALS, it was on that day that he famously proclaimed himself “The Luckiest Man on the Face of the Earth.” His plaque was dedicated on July 6, 1941 - one month after his death.
We then made our way to the dugout. My mother and I sat where many past and present Yankees have. The Yankees are one of few team to have protection in front of the dugout, not required by Major League Baseball. This was done after Don Zimmer was hit by a sharply hit foul ball batted by Yankee second baseman Chuck Knoblauch during the 1999 playoffs. The next game, Zimmer wore an army helmet with the word "ZIM" painted on the side and the Yankees logo stenciled on the front.
We then proceeded to the Yankee clubhouse. We were instructed ad nauseam not to take photographs inside the Yankees inner sanctum. Noteworthy was that Thurman Munson’s locker reamins as it was on August 2, 1979 - the day his self piloted plane crash killed him. Even after Septemeber callups, rookies will double up in a locker before using Munson's.
Also notwothy was that Mariano Rivera’s had the biggest locker. He will be the last player in MLB history to wear #42. The number was retired league wide on April 15, 1997 for Dodger Jackie Robinson (1919-1972)’s contribution to baseball. Rivera was wearing the number at the time and when he retires, so will the number.
We also learned the history of the Yankee jersey. The interlocking "NY" logo was originally designed for an award given to a New York City police officer for bravery by famed jeweler Tiffany & Co. It caught the eye of the Yankees and became their logo in 1913.
Our tour concluded in the press box. We were shown where “George Costanza”’s office would have been. (Read: “Seinfeld” reference.) The home press (and leftfielder Hideki Matsui’s local Japanese paper) sits in of three rows and the visiting media sits in the last row. Mom and I were visitors on this day.
We saw where p.a. announcer Bob Sheppard (b. 1910) sits. He has been with the team since 1951. Reggie Jackson referred to him as the “Voice of God.” Though he is presently out of commission due to a bronchial infection, Yankee captain Derek Jeter had his personal introduction recorded so his voice is still heard at every game.
The tour was fantastic. It is sad that this represents the final season at Yankee Stadium. The site will host this season's All-Star game (on July 15) for the last time.
The New Yankee Stadium is next door and is beautiful. It is being done by the same group that built Camden Yards in Baltimore. On this day, news that a construction worker and Red Sox fan imbedded a Red Sox t-shirt in the new walls in hopes of cursing the Yankees spread throughout the city. Yankee officials denied the reports.
After our tour, we returned to the subway and made our way to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. We were joined by our guide and cousin, NTC. She brought me a special birthday gift – my great grandfather William Nodell (1883-1953)’s medals from World War I. I was incredibly honored.
NTC is a member of the museum and guided us through. We viewed the ancient Egyptian exhibit and the examples from the Impressionist period. There was actually a fully reconstructed Egyptian tomb rebuilt from Egypt. It was impressive.
Museums we considered visiting: The Guggenheim Museum (unfortunately is was closed to renovation), the Museum of Modern Art, and the Museum of Sex (which would have been incredibly awkward).
We then took a taxi, passing among sites passed F.A.O. Schwarz and the Palaces where I had eaten with NTC on my first New York excursion at age four.
We then made our 6:30 pm reseverations at the Broadway Joe Steakhouse. We ate at the restaurant largely because we received vouchers with our theater tickets. It was also conveniently located near our play.
The restaurant has a long history. It was opened in 1949 by Joe Moreno during the Damon Runyan Era (“Guys & Dolls”). He dubbed his place "Broadway Joe" - because his name was Joe and he was on block away from Broadway. In 1953 looking for a typical New York restaurant, a film crew shooting the FBI Story with Jimmy Stewart, choose to feature "Broadway Joe." In 1970, New York Jets quarterback Joe Namath acquired the nickname "Broadway Joe" and frequented the restaurant and brought sports legends, as well as stars from Broadway shows to dine here. Over the years, the Broadway Joe Steakhouse has become a famous New York landmark.
The three-course meal (soup, steak, cheesecake) was adequate and the atmosphere was great. We happened to sit by tables of all Southerners. Our “neighbors” were from Georgia, Greensboro (NC) and amazingly Parrotsville (in my home county - Cocke County) Tennessee. Our waiter, David Schmidt – a local playwright – was also very cordial. It was a good experience.
We then walked to the Al Hirschfeld Theatre on Broadway to watch Curtains. I selected this play at the recommendation of LBG. As usual, she made a good choice.
“The Musical Comedy Whodunit” is a smash hit. It will close on June 29 after 511 performances and 26 previews. It was first previewed on February 27, 2007. It stars David Hyde Pierce, best known for his role as “Niles Crane” on the TV sitcom Frazier. Pierce was a surprise winner of the 2007 Tony Award for Best Lead Actor. Debra Monk is billed second and prvides countless zingers. Tenor Jason Daniely has an especially beautiful voice and his "I Miss the Music" is warming even in a comedy.
The play is set in Boston's Colonial Theater in 1959. Anna Louizos' set went to great lengths to recreate the venue with great authenticity.
The outset of the play is the opening night of the new, but fledgling, musical "Robbin' Hood." The plot ensues when the talent bereft leading lady is murdered during the curtain call, thus making the entire cast and crew suspects.
With this, Lt. Frank Cioffi (Pierce) enters to solve the murder. As a musical theater fanatic, he also decides to take it upon himself to solve the problems of the show. The hilarity ensues from there with the revelation of the killer being a mere afterthought.
The show was developed in the 1970s by the musical team of John Kander and Fred Ebb (who wrote “Chicago”) along with librettist Peter Stone as a backstage musical comedy about putting on a floundering musical. It was shelved for some thirty years, until the trio got working again. Stone died in 2003, following the second staged reading of the material. Afterwards, Rupert Holmes joined in, adding the murder mystery aspect to the story. Ebb died suddenly a year later, but Kander and Holmes pressed on with the show, which finally hit Broadway in 2007.
The show has many local references, including the opening after party at Sardis, the restaurant we ate at the previous night.
Though the cast is filled with “Frazier” alums, Pierce’s character is nothing like Niles. Edward Hibbert appeared in 29 episodes as “Gil Chesterton” and Debra Monk also appeared in an episode of “Frazier” on 9/23/2003.
Afterwards, Pierce appealed to the audience to buy special items. Proceeds would go Broadway Cares. For only $20, I bought a Pierce signed “death threat” that was used on stage during the show’s run!
It drizzled on our way walking back home, but it was an otherwise perfect day. We stopped at Gristedes, a local grocery store, where my mother spent nearly a half an hour selecting her next morning’s breakfast!
Friday was my favorite day in New York. Perhaps not coincidentally it was the only day of the five-day trek that I did not lug my suitcase around.
Saturday morning was our last in the city as we would be spending the remainder of the trip in my mother’s native Long Island. While my father completed his meetings, we spent the morning shopping for souvenirs. We found them at New York Gift (729 7th Avenue), The Gift Shop (833 7th Avenue), New York Attitude: Gifts & Souvenirs (843 7th Avenue), Phantom of Broadway (1607 Broadway) and Grand Slam New York (1557 Broadway). These were only the stores I actually purchased from!
Before checking out of Le Parker Meridien we ate at the hotel’s burger restaurant. It is well-known as one of the best burgers in NYC. It is hidden around a curtained corner with only a hidden neon burger sign hinting at its existence. The walls are covered with signatures of famous patrons. For instance, we sat at a booth directly in front of signatures from Menudo. More impressive than us sitting in the same spots as Yankee greats in the dugout, was reclining where Menudo had. I checked the five signatures and Ricky Martin was not among them. I assume this is a more recent incarnation. (Note: This picture is the hotel’s version of the “Don Not Disturb Sign.”)
After checking out, we walked across the street and acquired our rental car from Hertz. We were upgraded to a white Lincoln Town Car. Somewhere, O.J. Simpson was pleased.
Armed with “Lucy” (my father’s Garmin), we hit the Long Island Expressway to Oyster Bay. My mother’s family moved to Oyster Bay at age 10 when her father was hired as principal of Oyster Bay High School. The school board required principles to live in the city which where they worked.
Amazingly, many of my mother's neighbors lived in the same homes they did forty years ago when she lived there. Our first stop was an impromptu visit with 86-year old Nathalie Bernstein (NCB). Her house, which hd the only swimming pool on the street, served as headquarters for block parties when my mother lived there and her son George was very close with my uncle REN. She recognized my mother as soon as she opened the door. She is a wonderful Jewish lady who was hard at work preparing for Passover the following week. She showed me her Seder Plate and told me the Passover story. (Yes, she knew I was a minister.) It was a great visit.
We then stopped by my mother's house at 38 Adams Street. We also saw the telelphone booth at a Gulf station in which my mother often called my father (my grandfather would not allow her to use the home phone), the high school (where she went and my garndfather worked), First Presbyterian Church (where my mother attended) and Oyster Bay's shore. We stopped by the drug store where my mother spent countless hours. It is now a Carvel ice cream shop. While she was disappointed that the drug store no longer existed, she was pleased to have some of her favorite ice cream.
One store still in business was the Buckingham Variety Store (36 Audrey Avenue). This is one of the last of the 5 & 10's - although 5 & 10 cents does not go very far these days. It was honestly much like a Dollar Store. Amazingly, a saleslady showed us chemistry stencils whose price tag indicated they had been on the shelves since 1973! How does this place stay in business? If you ever need chemsitry stencils, you know where to look.
Before leaving Oyster Bay we visited the Sagamore Hill National Historic Site. This is the 22-room estate of President Teddy Roosevelt (1858-1919). While there I learned that the “teddy bear” is named for him. The teddy bear's story derives from a November 1902 hunting trip in Mississippi. After an unsuccessful day, the hunting party brought a small bear cub to the camp for the president to shoot. He refused because the animal did not have a chance to defend itself. From this anecdote, the "teddy bear" was born.
My mother also has a connection to Roosevelt. His daughter Ethel Roosevelt Derby (1891-1977) lived on her street. Though my other knew little of her, my uncle REN and his friend George would often finagle cookies and lemonade from her housekeeper. My mother became connected to her when she sought a penpal for the family that maintained her brothers' graves in France (they had died in WWII). My grandfather nominated my mother and her penpal Odile would eventually live with my mother for some time.
We then traveled to Farmingdale, also on Long Island. My mother lived there until she was ten while my grandfather served as history teacher, driver's education instructor, and guidance counselor.
Before arriving at our destination, we drove by Farmingdale United Methodist Church (where my mother attended) and Waldbaum’s, a grocery store. We checked into TownePlace Suites. The place has only been in operation two months. This was especially evident when the concierge had no idea how to get to the airport.
We then visited my mother’s home on Wall Street. (Yes, my mother was raised on Wall Street.) The homes are very cookie cutter and close together. This is because they were all designed by Bill Levitt (1907-1994), one of the most influential architects in history. He used assembly line techniques to mass produce standardized boxes depicted on TV shows like "Father Knows Best" and "Leave It to Beaver." While they are not especially unique, they provided affordable housing for soldiers returning from World War II, like my grandfather. 17,000 of these homes were built, originating in Levittown, New York, in 1947.
Amazingly, her next door neighbor still lives there in the same house! Edith Thomson (EBT), 86, still resides at 51 Wall Street, though her husband Dick died in 1993. EBT was my grandmother’s closest confidant and was privy to family secrets. She is still sharp as a tack and was able to fill in many of the gaps in my grandparents' history. She enunciates better than anyone I have ever met and I could have listened to her speak all day based upon both style and content.
We ate at the South Bay Diner in Lindenhurst as EBT was not impressed by any of the restaurants in Farmingdale. I had matzah ball soup (my first ever matzah ball) and roast.
We were joined by her son John Thomson (JAT) and his girlfriend Colleen Force (CAF). JAT is a guitarist who vocally resembles Eric Clapton. Colleen is a singer and mother of five who loves Edwin McCain like I love KJW. Her signature number is Van Morrison’s 1970 classic “Moondance.”
They are connected to a tropical rock band named the Young Rebel Goombas. A goomba has the ebonic equivalent of homeboy. JAT & CAF even provide vocals on their song “Sing-a-long.” They were heading to a concert later in the night, but I was pooped and chose to head to the hotel and sleep. They did supply me witha CD for my birthday. Thanks!
Speaking of which, as many of you know, Saturday marked my 30th birthday. I want to thank everyone who called, texted, e-mailed, etc. It honestly did not feel like my birthday, being away from home. It was a good one though and I have no negative feelings at all regarding the "big 3-0."
On Sunday, my father and I visited the Long Island National Cemetery in Farmingdale while my mother relaxed in the hotel. My great grandparents William and Cecelia Nodell are buried there in plots 1644b & a respectively. There was little new data on their tombstones, but it was nice to see their final resting place.
We then hit the Long Island Expressway back to LaGuardia Airport in Flushing. We ate at a Chilis Too inside the terminal before returning home. Our flight was on schedule and we touched down as plan, luggage in tact. It all came off without a hitch and we did not even kill each other. I must say, though I enjoyed the experience immensely, I was grateful to be home.
On Sunday night, KLTW, KJW, and RAW stopped by the house. I gave KJW her souvenirs – a rubber duck (I get her those on my trips), a miniature die-cast taxi (all yellow vehicles are “Chan’s car”), Stature of Liberty sunglasses and a Manhattan coloring book that came free with the purchase of the shades. Naturally, the free coloring book was her favorite. It was good to be home.
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